Ultimate Ears has been making custom fitted, in-ear personal monitors for years, and their reputation in the music world is almost legendary. How does the thought of a tiny, custom-fit, comfortable ear piece, complete with multiple drivers that deliver full, rich, accurate, and life-like sound while canceling out background and ambient noise hit you?

One of the most common complaints with today’s mp3 players (think iPod, Zen, Rio, Jukebox and so on) is that the headphones that ship with them aren’t worth the nickel it cost to include them. I heartily agree with this sentiment – the ear buds that shipped with my iPod don’t fit my ears properly and the sound is almost abysmal. I have a pair of Bose Quiet Comfort headphones that I usually use with my iPod, but they’re big and bulky, and after a while, they make my ears sweat.

A call to Ultimate Ears solves the problems associated with ordinary headphones and ear buds. Good-bye uncomfortable, ill-fitting ear buds. Good-bye bulky, uncomfortable, hot headphones. But what’s with all of this “custom fit” talk? How does that work, you ask?

It’s rather simple. Pick up your yellow pages directory and turn to the “hearing aids” section. Find an audiologist or hearing aid center near you and make an appointment to have an ear impression made. This $75 procedure takes less than ten minutes, and requires the audiologist to inject silicone into your ear, so that he or she can get a “full shell earpiece” mold. When it’s all done, you’ll walk out with your ear molds, which you’ll then send to Ultimate Ears.

Ultimate Ears will utilize the impressions to make an ear piece that’s designed specifically for each of your ears. And, depending on the model you select (Ultimate Ears offers six different models of personal monitors), Ultimate Ears will fit your monitors with either two or three drivers, box them up and send them back to you in a nifty little miniature metal “flight case.” You’ll be enjoying your custom fit personal monitors in no time.

Why custom fit? A custom fit ear piece is comfortable – it’s designed to fit snugly, yet comfortably in your ear. The proper fit also provides outside noise cancellation of up to -26db (perfect for when you’re trying to listen to your iPod or DVD player on an airplane), and better yet, the snug fits creates what is essentially a resonance chamber in your ear, and that means bigger, better bass without having to increase volume. It also means that people sitting next to you won’t hear what you’re listening too, and that’s a feature that I wish every person on the Metro while listening to an iPod would take advantage of.

The entry level Ultimate Ears UE-5c feature dual drivers (high and low frequencies), a frequency response of 20Hz to 16kHz, 119db of sensitivity at 1 milliwatt, and come with your choice of clear, black, beige or brown replaceable cables in lengths of 46-inches or 64-inches. The UE-5c’s are ideal for iPod owners. The suggested retail for the UE-5c is $550.

The top of the line UE-10 PRO feature triple drivers (single high, dual low drivers), a frequency response of 20Hz to 16kHz, 119db sensitivity at 1 milliwatt, and can be molded in your choice of skin tone, custom color, or two-color swirl (at no charge). Like the UE-5c, the cables are available in a variety of colors and lengths, and are replaceable. The suggested retail for the UE-10 PRO is $900.

Sure, the Ultimate Ears are a bit pricey, but once you try them, you’ll never want to leave home without them. And besides, you spent several hundred dollars on your mp3 player, and you’ve spent more than a few hundred bucks customizing your car, so why not indulge yourself with the most comfortable, best sounding set of ear phones you’ll ever experience? Ultimate Ears are designed to last a lifetime (if cared for properly), and are sure to earn you major cool points with your bench racing buddies. Give them a try, and you’ll wonder why you ever fooled around with any of those other ear bud-type headphones.

Well, if you have a BMW, you can “iPod your BMW,” thanks to a joint-effort between BMW and Apple. But for those of us not fortunate enough to own a late-model BMW, our options are somewhat limited. There’s the “cassette converter” option, but it’s rather messy, as it requires a wired connection between the iPod and the cassette deck. And, if you’re an aftermarket audio guru, you may not have a cassette deck in your car.

For those who don’t want to go with the cassette converter option, there’s always the aftermarket, integrated iPod controller, but they are often pricey, invasive and not exactly “portable.” When it comes time to sell your car, you’ll probably sell the iPod controller with it.

So what’s left? FM transmitters! But, how do they work? Are they big and clunky? Is the sound quality acceptable? Are they easy to use? How portable are they? We’ll take a look at a few of the more popular options and share our opinions and experiences with three of the most popular FM Transmitters for the iPod: The Belkin TuneCast II FM Mobile Transmitter, the Exonic EXF2030 FM Transmitter, and the Griffin Technology iTrip.

Belkin TuneCast II FM Transmitter
Suggested Retail Price: $39.99

We believe the Belkin TuneCast II FM Transmitter is the most versatile of the bunch because it utilizes a standard headphone plug to communicate with your iPod. When not in use, the compact cord wraps around the unit to store neatly out of the way. And the beauty of this system is that if you have multi-generation iPods (say a 2nd Generation iPod and a 4th Generation iPod), or if you have portable CD- or DVD-Players, the TuneCast II will accommodate them all. In our opinion, this is a major benefit, one that’s exclusive to the Belkin TuneCast II.

Another benefit of the Belkin TuneCast II is that it operates from its own power source. The TuneCast II ships with a pair of AAA batteries, which should provide many hours of use before requiring replacement. If you don’t want to use the batteries, you can purchase an optional 12-volt adapter cord.

Once plugged-in and powered-up, the Belkin TuneCast II is a breeze to use. It doesn’t require any software, and operation is simple and straight forward. There are three buttons on the device – one for shuffling through memory slots, and two for selecting the broadcast frequency. Press and hold both tuning buttons and you’ll power-on or -off the unit (the unit will automatically shut off after detecting 60-seconds of “dead air”).

The Belkin transmits on FM channels from 88.1 to 107.9MHz and can memorize up to four FM frequencies. This feature allows for simple frequency changes – handy if you travel through areas where certain frequencies grow weaker or stronger. Simply press the “MEM” button and you can shuffle through your any of your four presets.

Now for the bad news. Sound quality is acceptable at best, but we found the quality to be similar to most other FM transmitters. With a frequency range of 50Hz to 15KHz, certain key musical details are often lacking. Bass drums and low bass notes are often weak and or muddy sounding. Cymbals and screaming guitar riffs can sound muffled. Signal strength was good, but in busy metropolitan areas we did have to change frequencies to avoid fade-out (interference) from competing FM stations. Traveling through Washington DC rendered the TuneCast II useless as there simply weren’t enough empty frequencies for us to receive our iPod signal on. In rural areas, the TuneCast II was great as we rarely had to change stations to correct interference.

Hardcore audiophiles won’t appreciate the sound quality, but for the majority of us, the Belkin TuneCast II FM Transmitter should fit the bill for portability, convenience and sound quality.

Exonic EXF 2030 FM Transmitter
Suggested Retail Price: $49.95

We found the Exonic EXF 2030 FM transmitter while at a local mobile audio store, and the installers and salesmen swore by it. They told us it would “Beat the pants off any other transmitter in a similar price range.” We assume they were referring to the sound quality, because the Exonic unit requires a significant amount of installation time, and isn’t portable.

The unit itself is quite small, measuring in at just larger than the Belkin TuneCast II unit. The Exonic EXF 2030 requires a 12-volt power source, and has a pair of RCA-style inputs on it (for receiving audio signals). A row of dip-switches allows the user to select the frequency on which the unit will broadcast to.

It took us about an hour to install the Exonic EXF 2030, as it required an appropriate mounting location with access to both 12-volt power and ground (all of which were located behind the dashboard). And, like idiots, we didn’t photograph it prior to installation… We then had to route a six-foot Monster Cable audio cable from the unit to our iPod. The cable carried a price tag of $19.95.

The Exonic has a limited set of FM frequencies (10) to which it can broadcast, and unfortunately, in Washington DC there aren’t many open frequencies available. We chose 87.9 MHz as our frequency, as it seemed to have the least amount of FM content. Changing the broadcast frequency requires the user to set the dip-switches into a specific array… a task not easily accomplished while driving.

The good news is that the Exonic EXF 2030 sounds wonderful. The sound quality is far beyond that of the TuneCast II or the iTrip. High notes and cymbal crashes were crystal clear. Bass drums and low notes came through with a resounding thump. Signal strength was great, and we experienced minimal interference while using the unit, even in busy metropolitan areas like Washington DC. Our guess is that the Exonic is able to send a stronger signal that probably overpowers the competing radio station.

If portability isn’t a priority, and you place a high premium on sound quality, the Exonic EXF 2030 FM Transmitter is for you. Expect to spend around $125 to have it professionally installed.

Griffin Technology iTrip FM Transmitter
Suggested Retail Price: $39.95

The Griffin iTrip is without question, the most compact and most portable option we’ve seen. It also looks the coolest, but unfortunately, we didn’t find it to be as versatile as the Belkin TuneCast II. The audio connector is specific to the iPod, and while Griffin claims that one iTrip transmitter should work with all iPods, we had difficulty in getting our iTrip to work with our 2nd Generation iPod (the iTrip we tested was designed for a 3rd Generation iPod).

The iTrip allows you to broadcast on different frequencies, but only after you install the supplied software. Available FM frequencies (from 87.7 to 107.9 MHz) become part of a playlist. Changing broadcast frequencies isn’t difficult, but it does require significant navigation through your playlists.

The iTrip draws power from your iPod, and while it’s efficient, we did notice a dip in battery life when compared to using the iPod sans iTrip. This may be of concern to some folks, but it didn’t bother us.

Sound quality is similar to the Belkin TuneCast II, as the iTrip also broadcasts on a rather narrow range of audio frequencies – just 50Hz to 15KHz. Again, audiophiles will probably need to look elsewhere for high quality sound. Not unlike the Belkin TuneCast II, the Griffin iTrip had trouble broadcasting a clean signal in busy metropolitan areas. In rural areas, the iTrip performed well and was very similar to the TuneCast II in terms of audio quality and broadcast clarity.

If maximum portability and having the smallest, coolest looking form-factor is important to you, the Griffin Technology iTrip should be just the ticket.

FINAL CUT

So, while FM transmitters are handy, they’re not quite perfect – yet. Their ease of use, portability and clean installation make them seem like a good idea, but overall sound quality and the tendency to fade or tune out while in busy metropolitan areas makes them a bit of a pain to use. If you’re looking for a FM transmitter, we suggest you buy the one that’s easiest for you to use. Make sure you can quickly and easily change broadcast stations, and make sure it will work with all of your audio devices. From what we experienced during our little comparison, it’s difficult to choose a clear winner, so we’ll let you draw your own conclusions.

Added during publication: We’ve just revceived a Dension Ice-Link system, and will be installing it soon. We’ll provide a report in a future issue and will compare it to the results found in this review. Stay tuned…

With just hours to spare before his big event, Bob signed-on to the internet, frantically posted a question, read 2-3 replies and raced to the store to buy a helmet. While at the store, he was shocked by the prices – helmets are expensive! He looked at Bell Helmets, Arai Helmets and others. Bob reluctantly shelled out his money and drove home. While loading the helmet into his gear bag, it slipped from his hands and dropped to the ground. “Well, it’s broken in,” he mumbled as he scooped it up and stashed it away next to his $200 driving gloves and $150 driving shoes.

Luckily Bob’s track day went off without a hitch, and he returned home happy and excited about the day. He tossed his gear bag in the corner and began tending to the car, preparing it for the next event. In reality he should be tending to his helmet, researching a replacement and trying various helmets for proper fit.

MISTAKES AND MISCONCEPTIONS

Looking back at our example, it would appear as though Bob did everything to ensure a fun, safe and good track experience. Unfortunately, he put so little effort into choosing a helmet (and later dropped it, rendering it effectively useless) that a fun day could have turned tragic had any serious incident taken place.

As the old saying goes, “If you have a $10 head, buy a $10 helmet.” I’d like to think that your head is worth more than $10 (mine might be a wash), yet so many folks don’t take helmet buying seriously. The helmet is there for an important reason – the least you can do is spend some time buying one that fits well, while making certain it meets or exceeds various safety standards.

The primary cause of serious injury or fatality in an accident where a helmet has failed is improper fit and/or equipment failure. We’ll examine how to buy a helmet, including what to look for and how to make sure it will protect you when needed. We’ll also examine the various certification process and explain a little about the test procedures.

While there are many different types of helmets on the marketplace, we’ll focus on the type of helmets that are intended for motorsports use, specifically referred to as “Special Application” or “Motorsports” helmets. These types of helmets offer protection from impact, flying debris and (limited) flame or fire. While often similar in appearance to a motorcycle helmet, they’re quite different (motorcycle helmets tend to have a larger field of vision, no fire/flame retardant and different ventilation systems).

Although helmets look similar, it’s often very difficult to tell a good helmet from a bad one, and that’s where certifications can help. The Federal Department of Transportation (DOT) offers a certification standard, but the DOT standards are somewhat dated (many are based on 1972 ANSI standards), and the certification is voluntary. In other words, the onus is on the manufacturer to ensure their helmets meet DOT standards – the DOT does not conduct tests of helmets.

The Snell Memorial Foundation provides a rigorous set of test criteria, and is generally regarded as “the standard” in helmet safety technology. Unlike the DOT, Snell offers its testing and certification services to manufacturers in exchange for a testing fee and a licensing fee.

Snell, a not-for-profit organization, was founded in 1957 after William “Pete” Snell died during a racing event when his helmet failed to protect him. The foundation released its first set of standards in 1959, and has been working to improve helmet quality and safety ever since.

Before any helmet can earn a Snell certification, the manufacturer must pay a testing fee of about $1200 and submit five samples to Snell for testing. Snell destroys four of the helmets during its tests and saves the fifth for future reference. After a helmet receives its Snell certification, Snell randomly purchases samples from retailers to ensure quality and integrity of the certification.

The first helmet sample is destroyed as technicians cut the helmet open to inspect material thickness and quality, design and manufacturing quality, and inner lining inspection.

Snell uses the next three helmets in tests for impact resistance, positional stability, dynamic retention, shell penetration, and if applicable, flame resistance testing, chin bar testing and face shield penetration.

Impact resistance testing involves a guided fall on to various test anvils, while a head form (fitted with various accelerometers) reports the peak G force during impact. Snell expects the load to remain under a 300 G limit – if 300 G’s are exceeded, the helmet is rejected. For comparison, the DOT suggests that the number of G’s not exceed 400.

Positional stability and dynamic retention testing is a fancy way of saying, “The helmet has to stay on during an impact.” These tests make sure the helmet can’t roll off during a crash, and also test the chin strap to make sure that it doesn’t break or loosen during an impact. Again, Snell uses test equipment designed specifically to measure performance, per their specifications.

Shell penetration testing involves dropping a weighted, pointed striker in a guided fall onto the helmet from a prescribed height. If the striker penetrates the helmet, the helmet is rejected. Face shield penetration testing involves an air rifle and a soft lead pellet. Snell fires three shots at the face shield and inspects for signs of penetration.

Snell uses the next three helmets in tests for impact resistance, positional stability, dynamic retention, shell penetration, and if applicable, flame resistance testing, chin bar testing and face shield penetration.

Impact resistance testing involves a guided fall on to various test anvils, while a head form (fitted with various accelerometers) reports the peak G force during impact. Snell expects the load to remain under a 300 G limit – if 300 G’s are exceeded, the helmet is rejected. For comparison, the DOT suggests that the number of G’s not exceed 400.

Positional stability and dynamic retention testing is a fancy way of saying, “The helmet has to stay on during an impact.” These tests make sure the helmet can’t roll off during a crash, and also test the chin strap to make sure that it doesn’t break or loosen during an impact. Again, Snell uses test equipment designed specifically to measure performance, per their specifications.

Shell penetration testing involves dropping a weighted, pointed striker in a guided fall onto the helmet from a prescribed height. If the striker penetrates the helmet, the helmet is rejected. Face shield penetration testing involves an air rifle and a soft lead pellet. Snell fires three shots at the face shield and inspects for signs of penetration.

Chin bar testing only applies to full-faced helmets, and involves dropping a 5kg weight onto the chin bar from a prescribed height. Snell observes the amount of deflection and inspects for signs of breakage or excessive deflection.

Flame resistance testing involves a 790-degree centigrade flame. The helmet is subjected to the flame and is then expected to self extinguish within a specified amount of time after the flame is removed. Snell expects that the interior of the helmet must not exceed 70 degrees centigrade at any time during the test.

The tests, despite having their descriptions simplified for the sake of this article are complex and thorough, and easily exceed DOT specifications. Snell standards are typically updated every five years, with the newest set of standards expected to arrive some time in 2005. Helmets that meet the Snell standards are identified by either an adhesive sticker (usually placed inside the helmet) or by a cloth tag that’s sewn to the chin strap. Manufacturers pay Snell about $1 per sticker, in addtition to the initial testing fee.

Finally, any helmet that’s been involved in an impact should be returned for inspection by the manufacturer, as even the most thorough self-inspection can’t detect signs of damage. Snell further recommends that all helmets be replaced after five years.

While certifications are important, a proper fit is critical – if the helmet doesn’t stay in place during an impact, it can’t properly do its job. A helmet should never be uncomfortable – it should fit snugly, but shouldn’t cause headaches or uncomfortable pressure at any one place. The old saying used to go, “You should be able to sleep with your helmet on.”

When trying on a helmet, you’ll want to make sure that the helmet fits your head properly – the helmet should “ride” on your brow/forehead area, with an even, uniform pressure. Pressure should not be excessive or concentrated in any one area. The top of your head should make contact with the helmet as well.

Tighten the chin strap so that it rests snugly under your jaw, at the point where your jaw meets with your neck – just above the throat. Never wear your chin strap “on your chin” (like a football helmet). With the chinstrap secured, try to roll the helmet forward or backward – try your hardest to slide the helmet off your head. The helmet should not rotate forward or backward enough to impede your vision or expose your forehead. If it does, the helmet doesn’t fit properly.

Finally, stand in front of a mirror and “twist” (or rotate) the helmet left to right and front to back. The skin on your forehead should move as you move the helmet. If it doesn’t, the helmet is too loose.

A quality shop will have plenty of helmets for you to try, and each brand of helmet has a somewhat unique fit. If an Arai doesn’t suit your head style, try a Bell. If the Bell doesn’t fit properly, try a Bieffe, and so on. Keep trying helmets until you find one that fits properly and carries Snell certification.

Your head is the single most important asset to yourself and your vehicle. Rather than making a hasty, last-minute decision about buying the one device than can literally save your life, take some time to research your next helmet purchase and be sure to try the helmet on for proper fit. And finally, before you place an order for your helmet online, make sure that the manufacturer supports online purchases. Arai, for instance will not extend its warranty to helmets that are purchased online or through mail or phone methods – the fit is critical, and Arai would like you to visit an authorized dealer to make certain your helmet fits properly.

Official Web sites:
Snell Web Site
Arai Americas
Bell Racing

Now many of you might be thinking that a grill is a grill – but you’d be wrong for thinking so. Die-hard grilling enthusiasts will swear on their steaks that charcoal is the only way to properly grill. Practical backyard barbequers applaud gas grills for their convenience and ease of use. But which is best? Which one is right for you?

Charcoal grills have been around for ages, and as a result the design of a charcoal grill hasn’t changed much. The typical charcoal grill resembles a clam-shelled orb, with a pit for charcoal and a lid. Charcoal grills are relatively inexpensive, and range in price from $22 to just over $100. Weber seems to have this segment of the market cornered – almost everyone at one time or another has owned a Weber charcoal grill.

Gas grills have been around for quite some time as well, but unlike charcoal grills, their design varies greatly based on the manufacturer. Once again, Weber is one of the most respected names in this category, but companies like Broilmaster, Coleman, Ducane, Jenn-Air, Sunbeam, and Viking all have a strong presence. There are two types of gas grills to consider – Liquid Petroleum (LP) and natural gas. Generally speaking, LP is preferred as it burns hotter than natural gas. The benefit of a natural gas grill is that it can be plumbed into an existing natural gas line, and thus does not require an auxiliary tank that requires refilling.

In addition to charcoal and gas, there are electric and “pellet” grills, but neither are very popular, so we won’t include them in this article. And last but not least, there’s the smoker category, but they aren’t really grills at all, and are best saved for another story altogether.

Choosing between a charcoal or a gas grill boils down to convenience and placement. Charcoal grills tend to require a bit more effort, a little more skill and a wide, open, well-ventilated area for operation. A charcoal grill is not well suited to use in any covered or enclosed area.

A gas grill is often easier to use, more convenient (it can be used year round, even in inclimate conditions), and can be used (cautiously) under a covered deck or porch. Gas grills are easier to clean and don’t leave ashes behind – a plus in our book. They tend to cost at least twice as much as a charcoal grill, so price can play an important role in the purchasing decision.

CHARCOAL GRILLING

We’ll focus on the most obvious, most popular grill – the Weber charcoal grill. Weber offers three different “types” of the charcoal grill, in varying sizes. Weber offers the “Silver,” “Gold,” and “Platinum” charcoal grills in 18-1/2″ and 22-1/2″ sizes. For all practical purposes, the Silver and Gold models are nearly identical, while the Platinum includes an integrated workspace (non-heated) and a large, high-capacity ash catcher with integrated one-touch cleaning system (both of these features are found on the Weber Gold series as well).

All of Weber’s charcoal grills include sturdy frames and high-quality wheels, which help make moving the grill easy. We prefer the 22-1/2″ Gold Series Weber grill for its handy ash system and robust construction. The large cooking surface offers plenty of room to cook on.

Accessory choices are somewhat limited, but we have found one device that no charcoal griller should be without – a Chimney Starter. Available from almost any hardware or grill supply store for well under $20, these things make charcoal grilling a snap. They also make the food taste better, as there’s no lighter fluid to mess around with.

Charcoal grilling techniques vary greatly, but most experts agree that cooking with indirect heat is one of the most preferable ways to grill. Indirect heat allows food to cook evenly via convection, and helps to reduce the ever-dreaded “flare-up.” With proper food placement, the cook can sear foods with indirect heat, all without having to rearrange the charcoal.

All things considered, charcoal grills offer an inexpensive way to cook up a tasty backyard meal. Just be prepared to deal with the ashes and be ready for a few “flare-ups” if you’re cooking something a little greasy. We recommend you buy the biggest grill you can afford, as the extra real estate will be appreciated when you have guests over (and when you’re grilling, there’s always bound to be someone “dropping by”). You may also want to consider alternative forms of charcoal, including hardwood chunks – yum!

GAS GRILLING

As mentioned earlier, there are plenty of gas grill manufacturers to choose from. In our opinion, the Weber Genesis series of gas grills represent a great mix of quality, performance and price. For just under $500, you can get your hands on an entry-level, feature-packed Weber Genesis grill. Now, $500 might sound like a lot of cash for a grill, but believe us, it’s well worth it. One of our editors has had his Genesis grill for over 15 years and it’s still going strong. Weber sure does know how to build a quality grill.

Gas grilles offer the convenience of quick heating, better “flame control” (flare-ups), easier clean-up and less maintenance. Folks who live in a climate that’s subject to harsh winters appreciate that they can grille a steak any time of the year – most gas grilles work flawlessly in the winter. On the downside, gas grilles sacrifice a lot of that woody, smoky, charcoal taste, but in a blind comparison test, tasters were unable to discern the difference between two steaks grilled over gas and charcoal.

Most gas grill jockeys cook over indirect heat, much like their charcoal burning brethren do. When buying a gas grill, look for one that has at least three separate burners under the main cook surface – this will allow you the most flexibility when cooking with both indirect and direct heat. More burners usually means more BTU (British Thermal Units, or the “power rating” for a grill), and more BTU means a hotter cooking surface, which is perfect for searing a thick steak or heating a cast iron grill skillet. What? You mean you don’t use your grill for routine daily tasks like eggs and bacon? Try it – you’ll like it!

Don’t let another beautiful summer day pass without at least contemplating “grilling out.” Gather up some fresh hamburger or a nice steak, fire up your grill and enjoy the entire grilling experience. Whether you’re cooking over charcoal or some form of petroleum fuel, there’s nothing quite like the taste and fun of a backyard barbeque. Heck, you may just want to call the neighbors and invite them to participate in the fun.

For more info see:
Broilmaster
Coleman
Ducane
Jenn-Air
Sunbeam
Viking
Weber

Editor’s Hamburger Recipe:

Some of the best hamburgers I’ve ever had are completely homemade – it’s simple, and by grinding your own hamburger, you can safely cook the meat to whatever temperature you desire. This means you don’t have to suffer through another, dry and overcooked burger! (Thanks to Alton Brown for the recipe idea)

Hardware:
Food Processor
Stainless Steel Mixing Bowl (large)
Wax or parchment paper
Grill of your choice

Software:
12oz Sirloin Steak
12oz Chuck Steak
Kosher Salt
Fresh Ground Pepper

Add half of each type of beef to the food processor and “pulse” 8-10 times, for approximately 1 “long second” per pulse. The beef should still be slightly chunky, so be careful to not overprocess it. Remove and process the rest of the beef in the same manner. Place the ground beef in a large stainless steel bowl. Cover and return to the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes.

After the beef has chilled, prepare a large sheet of waxed paper (you’ll put the hamburgers on the paper). Loosely form patties that are approximately 6oz each and place them on the paper. Salt both sides of the patty liberally with Kosher salt (don’t use table salt!). Allow the beef to rest while you preheat your grill. The salt will draw a slight amount of moisture to the surface of the patty, which will result in a delicious, flaky crust.

Cook the burgers over indirect heat until they reach desired doneness – do not “smash” them with your flipper! I prefer medium/medium-rare. Once done cooking, remove the burgers from the grill, pepper lightly and allow them to rest for at least 5 minutes. Enjoy with your favorite toppings (I like American cheese and a toasted, buttered bun with just a hint of garlic).

Yield: 4 servings

Minolta Dimage Xg
Street Price: $299.00
www.konicaminolta.com

The Dimage Xg is definitely scores major cool points here. Smaller than a short stack of cheese slices; this camera is anything but cheesy. With a 3.2 megapixel sensor that will make great 8.5 x 11-inch prints, the Xg has the worlds fastest startup from sleep mode, capable of waking up in just over a second so you’ll never miss that shot of Bigfoot when you are out driving in the middle of nowhere.

The Xg also has a 3x optical zoom that will take you from moderate wide angle to moderate telephoto. It comes with a 16 MB SD memory chip (that you will want to promptly toss in favor of a 128 or 256 MB card) and a rechargeable lithium ion battery that is good for about 250 shots before recharge. While it features five different modes to accommodate different shooting situations, I had great luck just leaving it in auto mode and taking pictures.

You can download directly from the Xg via a USB card to your Mac or PC. Standard
image size is 2048 x 1536 pixels, with no support for TIFF or RAW imaging. And in case you find yourself screaming along a favorite back road and want to back up your story that you really were going 170mph, just put the Xg in movie mode and it can shoot 320 x 240 .mov (QuickTime) files at 15fps.

This was a really fun camera to use and would not be out of place in a James Bond or Laura Croft movie.

Canon S500 Digital Elph
Street Price: $499.00
www.canonusa.com

Aside from the Minolta, the Canon S500 may be one of the smallest cameras avaiable, but like dynamite, big things come in small packages. The S500 features a 5.0 megapixel sensor that’s capable of producing sharp, large scale prints up to 11 x 17-inches. Unlike the Pentax Optio 555, the S500 doesn’t offer TIFF or RAW image support, so you’ll have to make due with the standard jpeg images.

The S500 has a bright and sharp 1.5″ LCD that works well, even in bright, outdoor lighting. Don’t expect to find a lot of manual controls on the S500 – some like the simplicity, while some purists complain that it limits the user’s ability to capture “the perfect image.” We found that the S500 took wonderful photos in almost all settings, and its small size means that you can literally drop it in your shirt pocket and go.

The S500 can accept traditional compact flash memory, and ships with a 32 MB card. With image resolution of up to 253x x 19xx, you won’t store many images on that small card, so an upgrade is recommended. Like most of its competitors, the S500 can also capture QuickTime movies and features a really handy panoramic mode that makes for simple panoramic photo composition. Battery life was about average for this class and images are downloaded via a USB cable or a compact flash card reader.

If you’re looking for a really compact camera that packs big image quality, and incredible ease of use, consider the S500.

Fuji S20
Street Price: $925.00
www.fujifilm.com

If you are really serious about digital photography and are feeling wacky with your credit card, consider stepping up to the new Fuji S20. While it’s definitely not in the same price class as the other cameras tested, this is the newest thing from Fuji. It also happened to arrive at my door while I was doing this test, so here it is.

So what do you get for what is essentially equivalent to the cost of a set of track tires? A pro quality camera in every way except for having interchangeable lenses. The S20 has a 6.2 megapixel sensor and will capture photos in TIFF and RAW mode, just like the big boys do. It has a 6x zoom and uses Compact Flash cards as well as the new, tiny XD memory cards (just like the Olympus).

The Fuji S20 is the closest thing you can get to a Pro digital camera without having interchangeable lenses. If you shoot in the highest quality mode it will produce great 16 x 20 prints and rivals most of the new 8 megapixel cameras. The only bad news is this one won’t fit in your wife’s purse, so it’s a little less spontaneous than the others.

We’re talking Porsche Turbo here.

That’s all for now. Just like car shopping, I suggest you go out and test drive before you buy. See what makes the most sense for your lifestyle and consider what other applications you may want to use it for. You won’t go wrong with any of these great compact cameras.

In recent years, automakers have begun to follow suit. BMW and Lexus have been marketing items that carry their logo to their customers for some time.

The management at Cadillac is the latest to decide their line of cars could benefit from peddling high-end goods carrying its logo. From watches and briefcases to housewares, glassware and Callaway golf equipment, the Cadillac logo will be emblazoned on items that “are consistent with the image of Cadillac,” said Mark LeNeve, general manager of Cadillac.

Pendleton, Nambe, Mont Blanc, Skagen, Danier and Callaway are just a few of the manufacturers contracted to produce merchandise with the Cadillac logo. There will reportedly be children’s apparel as well.

“It’s a natural outgrowth of our current positioning and the renaissance of Cadillac,” LaNeve said.

Seeking out products and manufacturers that would appeal to Cadillac’s upscale clientele was the job of Susan O’Callaghan, national sales promotion manager for Cadillac, and Chemistri, the advertising firm that handles Cadillac’s national and regional advertising. Identity Marketing Group was hired to work with manufacturers and ensure “program fulfillment.”

This is not the first time the venerable American luxury car has had its image placed on merchandise and offered to its customers through a catalog. However, the items that carried the Cadillac logo in the past, mainly apparel and a few office items, were a far cry from the new catalog’s offerings. The new items will be much different from what was formerly offered through the catalogs, said O’Callaghan. “These [products] are a little more expensive,”

The merchandise is being offered in a 54-page catalog that has already started shipping to some Cadillac owners. There were 25,000 catalogs sent out in the last quarter of 2003, and Cadillac will ship out 30,000 more catalogs during each quarter of 2004.

Advertisements will also appear in “Vision,” the magazine for Cadillac owners.

Some dealerships have boutiques already set up to handle merchandise associated with their respective car lines. Ed Williamson, who owns Cadillac-Hummer in Miami, moves about $40,000 worth of Hummer and Cadillac merchandise out of his dealership every month. Williamson said he will not carry bigger-ticket items, such as leather goods, golf clubs or housewares in his dealership. He’s tried that in the past, but it doesn’t work, he said, not in his market. “What’s going to sell (in my boutique) are the toys, the soft goods, such as apparel and the automotive accessories,” he said.

Cadillac owners can purchase merchandise by calling 1-888-200-7197 or on-line at http://www.cadillaccollection.com.

Heck, I’m running behind right now – this article was supposed to have been completed months ago, but as has become the justification de jour of procrastinators ’round the world, “I was busy with other things.” Yeah, we’ll stick with that.

With a 1.33GHz processor under its hood, the new 17″ PowerBook G4 is able to blaze through tasks, both mundane and monstrous. Whether you need to use a computer to surf the internet, edit photographs, write recipes or perform mission critical business operations, the Apple PowerBook G4 is more than capable.

But there’s a lot more to the newest PowerBook G4 than a pumped-up processor. Users will enjoy upgraded graphics hardware, 512MB of standard memory, a 167MHz bus speed, and as of November 1, 2003, Apple’s latest operating system, “Panther” (OS 10.3). The ultra-thin (28mm or about 1″) also includes a 5400rpm, 80GB hard drive, Apple’s famous SuperDrive (capable of burning DVD media at up to 2x and burning CD media at up to 16x), and a slew of other goodies.

PC makers have tried to emulate the PowerBook’s strengths, but frankly, most have failed miserably. 17″ versions from the PC makers are big, clunky, inefficient and seem to run disturbingly warm. Our 17″ PowerBook was thin, light, fast and never even got warm to the touch – something that our laps were especially thankful for. And while PC’s may boast bigger numbers on paper, computers don’t run on paper.

Other nice touches from Apple include the backlit keyboard that automatically senses low-light conditions by responding with a soft-white hue from each key’s character. This is especially appreciated when using the laptop in say, the bedroom, at say, around 2AM while your wife is sleeping and you’re frantically trying to complete a late article…not that I’d know anything about that…ahem.

We’d be kidding ourselves if we didn’t admit that one of the nicest features of the 17″ PowerBook G4 is its 17″ widescreen display. With a native resolution of 1,440 x 900 pixels spread across 17″ of diagonal ultra-sharp widescreen LCD, images don’t just appear on the screen, they pop. Movies, text, games, and photos are sharp, clear, bright and beautiful. Watching a movie on the 17″ PowerBook G4 is like having your own personal screening room – it’s truly an awesome experience, and can make cross-country flights in coach painless and enjoyable (well, that’s stretching the truth a bit).

Despite all of the power and size, the PowerBook is frugal with the electricity. We managed to obtain nearly three hours of battery life while watching a DVD (with sound level set to 70%), and more than 5 hours of battery life while performing normal, routine tasks like composing and sending e-mail, surfing the web, and so on.

Never before has there been a laptop computer that’s combined so much beauty, performance, stability and efficiency in a masterfully crafted package, but Apple is used to being the first to introduce what later becomes “the standard.” If you’re in the market for a laptop, give the Apple PowerBook G4 a serious look. Combined with the Panther operating system, the 17″, 1.33GHz PowerBook G4 is a force to be reckoned with. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I’ve got some other articles to tend to…good thing the PowerBook is fired-up and eager to help.

The new F1’s, which feature brand new tire technologies including V-TRED and OneTRED, are specifically designed for upscale, sports car and sedan owners and feature a sweeping unidirectional tread pattern that evacuates water at an unprecedented rate.

The unique design of the tire features a continuous “center zone” that increases stiffness and provides immediate steering response and accurate feedback, a continuous load transfer design which translates into improved handling (thanks to the shoulder to centerline tread blocks), and as if that weren’t enough, it also offers a more stable shoulder area (read: more stable and increased lateral stiffness), thanks to asymmetrical rib angles.

Watching this tire perform is truly inspiring. It swallows high-g-force corners with ease, laughs at wet weather and provides tremendously accurate feedback to the driver. Improved noise characteristics and increased durability (280 tread rating) are almost like a bonus when you consider how well the tire performs.

The government appears to agree with us when we say that the wet weather traction is unbelievable – they’ve awarded it the highest wet weather rating of any ultra high performance tire – the coveted “AA” rating.

The new Goodyear Eagle F1 is available in many sizes, ranging from 195/50/15 to 285/30/21. Pricing is very competitive, considering the no compromises performance that this tire delivers. If you’re in the market for tires, take a good look at these bad boys – you won’t be disappointed. Look for an in-depth review soon…

The Goodyear Eagle F1 fitted to a BMW 3-series. This tire offers both wet and dry performance and handling that is second to none. A true ultra high performance tire.

In years past, detailing was a bit of a pain, especially if you didn’t have access to tools like the pros used, including buffers, magical compounds and waxes that were easy to remove. Buffer? Did I say buffer? No way, no how – those things are dangerous! My cousin’s best friend’s neighbor knew a guy who tore his mirror off and burned his paint with a buffer! Are you insane?

There’s a common misconception about random orbital buffers, especially with folks who aren’t real familiar with the finer nuances of detailing. Most confuse the random orbital buffer with a rotary (or direct-drive) buffer. Rotary buffers are more apt to cause damage, as they have more powerful motors, generate more heat, pressure and speed, and are usually used with more aggressive pads (including wool).

Rotary buffers can be found in just about any paint repair shop, and are often the preferred tool of “professional” detailers. Unfortunately, when used incorrectly they can introduce new swirls, damage paint and even remove trim and other permanent accessories. Rotary buffers operate with a heavy duty, high speed, direct drive motor – in other words, the buffing pad is attached directly to the output shaft of the buffer, much like a drill bit attaches to the motor of an electric drill.

The “spin true” nature of the rotary buffer can introduce swirl marks, especially if used incorrectly, which is why you often see so many cars driving down the road with massive “rotary ghosting” (my term) and other nasty operator induced swirl marks.

A Random Orbital Buffer (ROB) is a completely different machine. It has a much more forgiving personality, has less power, generates less heat, and does not spin in a true circular pattern. Contrary to what some naysayers would have you believe, the ROB can achieve results similar to those of a rotary, especially when used properly; but the main benefit comes from the ease of use and massive safety margin.

Porter Cable has been making a ROB for many years, and its most popular model is the 7424. Commonly referred to as the “PC7424″ (Porter Cable 7424), it has become the tool of choice for many detailers, both enthusiast and professional alike. Open any tool catalog, and you’re almost certain to find the PC7424 – it’s a popular and incredible piece of detailing machinery.

In addition to the PC7424, Porter Cable also markets a very similar machine, the 7336. Both machines feature the same basic “platform” – the main difference results from the backing plate size and counterweight size. We’ll talk more about that in a second.

Let’s start with the basics – both the PC7336 and PC7424 derive their power from a 3.7amp, 110v motor that’s capable of orbiting the backing plate in a random, elliptical motion at speeds between 2500 and 6000 orbits per minute. The motor drives a 5/16″ diameter spindle, to which a counterweight and backing plate are attached. The unit weighs approximately 6 pounds, and measures almost 14″ in overall length.

Users can adjust the speed of the machine by way of a small thumb dial, located on the back of the machine. A master power switch is mounted to the top of the machine, to ensure easy access. Porter Cable includes a stabilizer handle, which at the users preference can be attached to either “side” of the machine.

The primary difference between the PC7336 and the PC7424 boils down to the size of the counterweight that Porter Cable includes with the machine. The PC7336 ships with a 6″ counterweight and a 6″ backing plate, while the PC7424 ships with a 5″ counterweight and a 6″ backing plate with an integrated (non interchangeable) polishing pad.

Some folks will argue that the 5″ counterweight is fine for just about all uses, but I’ve found the 6″ counterweight smoothes the buffer action, especially when using larger foam polishing pads. It’s a personal preference, but should you decide you need a different counterweight, you can find them online for around $2. All you’ll need is a small TORX driver to exchange the counterweights – removal and installation is very straightforward.

Either buffer usually commands a street price that varies between $109 and $125, depending on the vendor. Keep in mind that the backing plate that ships with the 7336 or 7424 will not accept traditional Velcro-backed buffing pads. The 7336 factory backing plate is designed to accept adhesive sanding discs, while the 7424 has an integrated pad, so you’ll need to order a few accessories for your new buffer, which we’ll address in a paragraph or two.

The most common question I’m asked regarding the Porter Cable buffer is, “Should I buy the one from Griot’s for $199? I hear it’s made specifically for Griot’s and that they include their own special backing plate.” While there’s nothing wrong with the Griot’s version of the PC7336, it is, in my opinion, horribly overpriced.

The Griot’s Porter Cable kit is nothing more than Porter Cable’s #97336 kit, which includes a plastic carrying case, dust collection accessories and a Velcro-backed Porter Cable backing plate, P/N 18001. The cost for the backing plate is approximately $10 at any major hardware store, and the #97336 kit usually retails for around $135 – $150. You make the call as to where you’d like to buy yours.

Ok, so now that we’ve got the basic buffer in hand, let’s make it “user friendly”. I’d suggest you purchase a Velcro-backing plate from an online vendor. Backing plates can cost as little as $10 and as much as $30, and are basically all the same – just make sure the backing plate has the proper arbor shaft and the “hook-style” backing plate.

Once you’ve got the backing plate installed, you’re ready to buy some pads for the buffer, and you’ll soon be on your way to your first “life changing detailing session.”

I’ve tried a ton of pads over many years, and I continually find myself being drawn to the foam pads that are manufactured by Lake Country Manufacturing (LCM). LCM sells their Duro-Foam pads through vendors like Classic Motoring Accessories and Top Of The Line.

There are many different styles of these pads – contour foam, memory foam, flat foam, and so on. Which ones you choose is a matter of personal preference; some people like the larger pads, while other prefer the smaller 6.5″ pads; some prefer the contour foam while others prefer the Duro-Foam. I suggest you buy a few of each and experiment on your own.

There are a few basics regarding pad selection – when using LCM pads, the pad color determines its intended use/purpose. A yellow pad is designed for “cutting” – it will be more useful at removing swirls, and other defects, and is best used with a compound like 3M’s Finesse-It II or 3M’s Swirl Mark Remover.

A white pad is designed for polishing, and is best used with 3M’s Swirl Mark Remover (milder action than the yellow pad) or a glaze like P21S Gloss Enhancing Paintwork Cleaner.

A black pad is designed for finishing, and is generally used with fine glazes or liquid waxes. LCM also sells a wool pad, which is designed for fast, aggressive cutting – I rarely use the wool pad, as it’s possible to introduce some swirl marks if used improperly. When buying pads, I’d strongly urge you to buy at least two of each. You don’t want to use different products on the same pads without cleaning them first. Having more pads is infinitely more convenient when performing a large detailing job.

Finally, as a general rule of thumb, I only use the Porter Cable ROB to apply products – I always buff the residue by hand, simply because the terry-style bonnets that are available for the Porter Cable ROB aren’t very efficient at removing residue.

For a complete “how-to” article on the Porter Cable ROB, feel free to refer to my Porter Cable Beginners Guide.

In closing, if you’re looking to really improve upon the quality of your detailing experience, and are hoping to make life a little easier, the Porter Cable Random Orbital Buffers are a can’t miss proposition. Porter Cable has been in the power tool business since 1914, and their attention to detail and quality is second to none.

I’m certain that if you invest the extra money in a Porter Cable (it’s really only about $30 – $40 more than a store brand buffer), you’ll thank yourself many thousands of times over. As far as buffers are concerned, the Porter Cable has no equal – it’s beyond top notch.

Once onboard the plane, you’re usually stuck sitting in the worst seat available, which is either the seat next to the obese gentleman who doesn’t appear to be a fan of effective deodorant, or worse – you’re near the engines and can now look forward to several hours of a deafening symphony of wind, engine, passenger (read: screaming babies) and other ambient noises.

Just when you thought it couldn’t get any worse, you discover that the $2 headphones the flight attendant just sold you are a complete rip-off. There’s no way they’re worth $2; they’re worth ten-cents, at best. You do your best to crank up the volume of the “Everybody Loves Raymond” re-runs on your airline headphones, crumple yourself into the corner of the seat and do your best to survive the remainder of your flight.

Thankfully, at least one of these major headaches can be avoided with a simple call to the Bose Corporation. Bose makes a special noise canceling headphone, called Quiet Comfort, that uses an electronic “ear” to find disturbing ambient noise, then generates a noise that is completely opposite of the offending noise. This effectively works to cancel the noise, as the two opposing sine waves zero one another out (you did know that sound waves, i.e. frequencies, are sine waves, right?).

You might be asking yourself, “Who wants to sit there in complete silence?” Again, Bose has you covered – not only do the headphones cancel surrounding noise, they also feature an input jack that works perfectly with any standard mini-stereo headphone jack, and includes adapters for other types of connections as well.

Sound a little better? We thought so. Letís take a better look at the headphones, shall we?

We ordered our headphones by calling the toll-free number that was listed with a Bose advertisement in one of the in-flight magazines. The cost was $299, plus shipping and handling – a little on the pricey side, yes, but Bose also offers 12 months interest-free financing. For around $25 per month, you can amortize the cost of the headphones to something a bit more manageable.

The first thing we noticed about the Quiet Comfort headphone system is that it’s a little on the large side. Bose does include two types of carrying cases – both are soft cases, one resembles a pouch; the other resembles a small shaving kit.

The headphones have what appears to be a synthetic leather pad around each ear cup. The padding is soft and supple, but the material causes your ear area to sweat if used for an extended period of time. I’ve noticed that on flights lasting more than an hour, my ears get very warm – the cups surround your entire ear, completely.

The ear cups are adjustable – you can make the headset bigger or smaller as you desire, and the cups are on pivots, which makes for a very comfortable fit (albeit a bit warm). Once fitted to your head, two thin signal wires make their way about 30″ to a small controller. The controller has a switch that controls “Off, Lo or Hi” settings, and also houses the two AAA batteries necessary for the headphones to work properly.

From the controller, a third, single signal wire is terminated with an angled mini-stereo jack, and is approximately 14″ in length. Our only other complaint with the system has to do with the signal wires and controller. Both the input and output (to headphones) wires are on the same side of the controller, rather than being in-line with one another. This is a minor annoyance, but it effectively shortens the wire length, and the controller hangs awkwardly from the headphones, suspended between the headphones and the source device at an odd angle.

The entire system is fairly lightweight – it weighs approximately 8 ounces, and battery life is outstanding. We’re still on the same set of AAA batteries that came with the unit (in May of 2002). Bose claims the battery life is approximately 80 hours, and we have no reason to doubt that figure.

How do the Bose Quiet Comfort Acoustic Noise Canceling headphones work? In a word, marvelously. On our first flight from Dallas to San Francisco, the headphones effectively silenced nearly all of the outside noise. We tried the headphones in several different configurations just to see how well they worked under varying circumstances. They are a definite life-saver on those long flights. We’ve taken over 20 flights in the past year (all over two hours in length), and the Bose Quiet Comfort headphones have yet to disappoint us.

During those 20 or so flights, we’ve had a chance to really experiment with the system. The Lo and Hi settings simply affect the amplification of the source media you’re listening to through the headphones. For example, while listening to music on the Lo setting, you might have to crank up your walk-man, iPod, or notebook computer a bit. When set to Hi, the Bose system allows you to set your source volume much lower (to help conserve battery life on the media player).

While on a cross-country flight and watching a DVD via my notebook computer, I found that with the Bose controller set to Hi, I can set the notebook volume to about 50%, and still hear the movie very well. Compare that to 80% on the Lo setting, and it becomes obvious how well the Bose amplifier works.

The audio quality of the headphones is good; it’s not audiophile quality, but it’s not tin-can quality either. True purists won’t like the emphasis the headphones place on certain frequencies (a bit of audio trickery), but for the average listener they should be more than pleasing to the ear. To me, they sound very warm and inviting and I find myself using the Bose headphones whenever I fire up my portable mp3 player, portable CD player, or any other audio device.

As a package, the headphones are a very good buy. There are a few minor annoyances (the cable length and configuration, the “hot” ear cups), but all in all, there’s very little to complain about. Once you try them on a flight, you’ll wonder how you ever flew without them, as the noise cancellation technology reduces that turbulent roar common to most flights to nothing more than a mild “whir”.

Do yourself (and your ears) a favor. Check out the Bose Quiet Comfort Acoustic Noise Canceling headphones by visiting www.bose.com or calling them at 1-800-999-2673. We’ve been using them for long enough to know they’re definitely worth the money – they really do take the mental fatigue out of air travel.